22
Jun 10
  

A Revealing Post On My Study of Photography


It’s been just about a year now since I first started using a DSLR camera. Prior to July 2009, my only experience with photography was using a point and shoot digital camera. I got my feet wet with a Canon Digital Rebel Xsi after which point my interest in photography skyrocketed like you wouldn’t believe. I bought, wait for it, the “Canon Rebel Xsi Book for Dummies” which I just about devoured cover to cover while on our summer vacation last year. It was far far superior to the camera’s actual manual and I learned so much from it. I also used the internet on my phone to Google endlessly for any info I could get my hands on. I no doubt spent hours pouring over the articles at Digital Photography School, when we weren’t seeing the sights that is. I’ve written a more thorough post about this story which you can read about here.

The main focus of this post is to highlight all of the different sources I’ve used to help me learn over this past year. Though it may seem odd that I would post this on my “professional blog”, I actually believe that it would be unprofessional of me to claim to be further along than I am or to know more than I do. So for that reason, I freely give you some more information about my journey with photography. If you really want to know more, keep reading.

Photographer FAQ’s
I would say the most influential source of information for me has come directly from other photographers. You will find many photographers who have bent over backwards to write “Frequently Asked Question” posts on their blogs and I am just one of the many that have benefited from the work they put into these posts. Here is a list of links to all the photographers I feel have helped me the most with their “FAQ” posts. (The links point directly to either faq sections on their blogs or individual faq posts.) I believe I have read almost every single one of the following posts and on more than one occasion. Listen people, you could PAY for valuable information like this so if you’re serious about learning, read through what they have to say. You will be sooooo glad you did. It will take some time to read them all (which you should do) so give yourself a “Photography Learning Boot Camp Weekend” and have your note pad, coffee and some delicious snacks on the ready.

I should note, these are all photographers who I discovered and subsequently began frequenting their sites because I really enjoyed their work. They obviously knew something I didn’t and I therefore began to dig further into their blogs to find their FAQ posts specifically. If you have photographers that you follow and admire, chances are good that there’s information buried within their blogs that can help you. Search for keywords like “lenses” and “lighting” and even “faq”. Is this slightly stalker-esque? Mmmmaybe, but if you’re ravenously hungry to learn, you’ll do what you have to. :-)

FAQ’s with Melissa Jill

FAQ’s with The Youngren’s

FAQ’s with Jessica Kettle

FAQ’s with Jasmine Star

FAQ’s with Jamie Delaine

FAQ’s with Stephanie Fay — one. two.

FAQ’s with The Image is Found

FAQ’s with Bobby Earle

FAQ’s with Michelle Moore — one. two. three. four. five. six.

Feast Your Eyes
Another one of the ways I have learned about photography over the past year is from STUDYING images. I am one of those “visual people” so for me, just looking at an image can be a mini-lesson in and of itself. From one image you can examine the light source, take note of the apparent depth of field and try to guess what focal length the photographer has used. I would also highly recommend studying the EXIF data of the images you particularly like, if possible. This online tool called “Find EXIF” will give you just the basics including what camera and lens was used along with the aperture, shutter speed and ISO values. It helps to understand the mechanics behind the image so that you yourself can then replicate the technique/settings on your own. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve looked at an image in befuddlement until I was able to see and then understand through the help of the data stored within that image. “Ohhhh, so THAT’S how they did that.” Flickr is a GREAT place to go if you want to study this EXIF data concept. Find some photographers whose work you admire and if you’re lucky, they’ll have left their photos’ data open to the public so you can study away. Also on Flickr, you can tag images as your favorite so that you can return to them time and time again for inspiration. But don’t let the quality of someone else’s work discourage you! If you see an image and think “wow, I’m really bad”, let that drive you to learn and become better. You WILL learn and you WILL get better if you’re constantly working towards that end. Also remember that the learning never ends. Your interest in photography will wane if you don’t have the desire to learn. Fortunately, you can bet that there will always be something new to learn, regardless of your experience.

Digital Photography School
I mentioned it above, but this website is an absolutely wonderful tool for the beginning photographer. I would say it is geared more toward the beginner/hobbyist than the professional…..but who says you can’t be both. The site is broken down into categories, Camera Gear, Shooting Techniques, and Post Processing. You will find loads and loads of information here. Whatever you want to know, I would almost guarantee that you can find it.

Research Your Gear
When I was first looking into upgrading from my Rebel Xsi last summer, I read lots of the DPS’s articles on cameras and lenses, including all of the user comments people would make on each post! This is where I first learned about prime lenses (fixed focal length) which I soon determined was going to be my niche. From there I would then research about specific lenses or cameras on Amazon, Adorama, B&H Photo and other reputable places and read user reviews and comments. I would also go onto Flickr and search for images created from specific lenses or cameras or lens/camera combos. I wanted to know everything I possibly could about something before I bought it. A few of my first purchases were not as well informed and as a result, I ended up selling the items later, including the Rebel and the lenses I got for it. In fact, I made a number of purchases over the course of a few months last summer and subsequently sold those items as well. It may be a little out of the ordinary, but don’t be afraid to do this! Many lenses keep their value so if you end up buying something and realize after the fact that you’ve made a mistake and can’t return it, sell it. I don’t believe I lost much if any money by selling my gear. Anything that I would have lost was worth the time and experience I got to conclude that a certain lens or camera body wasn’t right for me. It would be virtually the same as renting the gear (though renting is certainly easier.) Since last July I have gone through 3 camera bodies and 10 lenses and I am now happily “set” with one camera body and 5 lenses. (Though I’m in the market for a back-up body for weddings.) There will always be “toys” that we want or even drool over, but I think it’s important to determine just what you specifically need for your uses. I would gladly eat beans and rice for 6 months to save up for a couple of these “toys” but since they are not necessities, I am not in a hurry to drop the cash.

Try a Prime
My advice for someone looking to make a big camera purchase is to be obsessive compulsive like me! Research research research and then some! My own belief is that you ought to buy the absolute best lens you can afford instead of the best camera you can afford. I would also strongly recommend that one learn how to take quality images by using a fixed focal length lens (prime lens.) I believe photography to be a much more visceral experience when you are forced to move and incorporate your entire body to get the shot that you want. It is all too easy and convenient (not to mention practical) to simply flick your wrist to zoom in or out on your subject. As for me, I don’t seem to connect with this style of shooting and have chosen to avoid zoom lenses completely. I don’t own any. Instead, using prime lenses and moving my body has forced me to 1.) overcome my self consciousness when it comes to “getting in people’s way” with my photography and 2.) freed me up to be more creative because I don’t have to worry about potentially numerous focal lengths I could choose from in a zoom lens. Yes it is actually FREEING to not have the option to zoom. My hands are free and my mind is clear so I simply move about and look through the viewfinder until I have the composition I want. It is magnificent. But not everyone can relate to this style and indeed it is a style. If you prefer to use zoom lenses, please do so, but at least give a prime lens a try. Another huge reason to use prime lenses instead of zoom lenses is that these lenses are higher in quality when compared with zoom lenses at comparable prices. If image quality and sharpness (and speed!) are most important to you, a prime lens will win every time. Now don’t go comparing a $200 prime to a $2000 zoom; that is not an “apples to apples” scenario. Do your research on this point and determine where the comparisons can apply.

As to what focal length to buy, this will be entirely up to the subject matter you will find yourself shooting most often. If you want what is generally called an everyday “walk-about” lens, then you will want something that has a focal length roughly equivalent to that of the human eye. Beautiful prime lenses can be purchased for under $400, believe it or not, but depending on whether or not you go with a full frame camera or 1.6 crop factor camera will determine what lens will be the most useful for you. If you own a full frame camera such as the Canon 5D, a 50mm f1.4 lens is the standard here. If you own a Canon 7D, 50D or any Canon Rebel, the $350 Canon 50mm lens will be too long to be considered a practical everyday lens. Instead you will want something in the 24mm – 35mm range. My personal recommendation here is the 35mm f1.4 lens. If you can possibly eek out the $1370 for this lens, you will be so happy you did. You’ll have it for the rest of your life, long after you’ve upgraded your camera bodies time and time again. It is one of Canon’s sharpest, fastest, and most beautiful lenses, ideal for many uses. This lens is also a genius on a full frame as well, becoming a moderate wide angle. If you can only afford one lens, believe that you will be shooting primarily portraits and are less concerned with everyday environment shots, then a beautiful and affordable prime lens for this purpose would be the $380 Canon 85mm f1.8 telephoto lens. It delivers outstanding results regardless of the camera body and at nearly $1500 LESS than the next step up in quality from this focal length, it is also an incredible bargain.

As you can see, the cost of multiple prime lenses can start to add up, the only point that I would consider a drawback in being a prime-only shooter. For myself, the freedom, quality and capabilities of these lenses are worth the (inevitable) extra expense and I don’t regret a single cent paid.

Photography Forums
Another source you can squeeze a wealth of knowledge out of is through other photographers on forums such as Open Source Photo. For the most part, you’ll find these communities a safe and informative place to browse for information on all kinds of topics, most notably others’ previous experiences and mistakes. You can post your photos for critique, search for used gear for sale, and place ads looking for shooting opportunities. Don’t get too sucked in but do make your presence known and be willing to help others with their questions in as much as you have questions you’d like answered.

Photography Books
I put this at the end because to be honest, I’ve only read a few books and would like to read more yet. The few that I’ve read have been helpful to me in learning some nitty gritty details on the basics of exposure and beyond. I tend to work at the computer on multiple tasks at once so reading articles online has been a more practical approach for me. I do like to go to Borders often to peruse the photography section and I have a wish list of books I’d like to buy or at least checkout from the library.

To conclude, the most obvious and readily available way of improving your photography skills is to take the dang photo. However, I never found this to be quite enough for me because I needed to know HOW. Now that I know the “how” (and am continuing to learn), taking photos is more enjoyable and progress is more notable because I have goals to work towards. Hopefully these tips can help you in whatever stage of learning you may be in. In the future, I’d like to eventually begin my own series of FAQ posts…but not yet.

Well this is awkward. I’ve never been good with concluding paragraphs, so… I’m out.

Posted in For Photographers, Tips + Tricks | 4 Comments | See Comments | Add a Comment

06
May 10
  

Before & After | Correcting an Underexposed Portrait


Here’s another before and after with Karen from a shoot we did in November last year. I just had to post this!! The SOOC image is straight up ugly. And that has nothing to do with the subject, mind you. It’s simply a bad image that is underexposed and too cool. I mean come on, images from the 35 1.4L should NOT look this bad! When I checked out the exif data, I could see that this was shot at f4. Not a particularly narrow aperture, but in my opinion, **too narrow for a head shot. Yikes! This is kinda the opposite of what I wrote about in my recent post about shooting wide open. I’m not sure why I was thinking f4 would be good for this photo, but chances are I just wasn’t thinking. Next time, definitely 1.4.

You will see that the color corrected image in Lightroom is a great improvement over the original but it’s still a little bit cool and just a tad dull. My trusty Photoshop actions spruced this right up.

In order from first to last, they are:
Clarify at 5% – Eye Candy Actions
Clarify (again) at 30% on everything but the subject – Eye Candy Actions
Carnivale Color at 10% – Eye Candy Actions
Pool Party at 20% – TRA Actions
Claire-ify at 25% – TRA Actions
A hue adjustment layer to correct the green shirt, Cyan at -6

**This is just my opinion. I typically like to shoot portraits both close up and full body at f1.4 to f2.8. This makes for a beautiful, creamy skin tone and texture.

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05
May 10
  

Before & After | Rescuing a “stinker”


I love to take pictures but I have to say I love the post processing work just as much if not more. I do all my pp-ing work in Lightroom and Photoshop. The goal is to color correct all of my RAW images in Lightroom first and then pull certain images in to Photoshop if I want to add any special touches to them. I’m learning how to get the hang of perfecting my color correction edits in Lightroom so that they may not need anything extra in Photoshop, but I’ve only been doing this for a relatively short while so I’m still learning as I go.

I like to add these “special touches” in Photoshop using actions, specifically Totally Rad Actions and Sheye Rosemeyer’s Eye Candy Actions. Though all of these actions are outstanding, I’ve found that I only use a handful on a consistent basis and I try to use them judiciously so they create more of a subtle effect than something that looks crrrrazy overdone. If you go back through this blog, you will find my experimentations with editing styles and….let’s just say I’ve changed my mind about a few things. I’m sure that in another 10 months from now I’ll have an even better handle on how I want my images to look.

Recently, I revisited some older images that I took last November and found this one in particular of my beautiful friend Karen that I wanted to fix. I had dismissed it before thinking that it was a lost cause and I didn’t even give it a chance. Well, I thought I’d see if anything could be done to it and this is what I came up with. The first image is the absolutely abysmal, straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) image compared with the edits I made in Lightroom. The Lightroom image looked okay but still too dark and orange-y for my tastes. So I took that image into Photoshop to see if anything else could be done to level it out using a few of my favorite actions. I think I fixed it! It’s a pretty drastic overall before and after but it’s not too shabby. ??? Usually, if I’ve totally botched a photo like that SOOC image, I’ll just move on to a better one because I frankly don’t have the time to make deep edits like this one. But it is still fun to see what can be done to fix little gems that you may have forgotten about.

In case you have any interest, here is the order of actions I used from first to last:
Carnivale Color at 15% – Eye Candy Actions
Claire-ify at 50% – TRA Actions
Pool Part at 10% – TRA Actions
A Vibrance reduction later at -15

If you want, tell me what you think about this!


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04
May 10
  

Photo Tips | Skin Tones


Nasty, alien looking skin tones are a big pet peeve of mine. Be it too orange, too ashy, too dull, or too saturated, an icky looking skin tone can be the death of an otherwise good photo. This can be a pretty perplexing issue and in times past, I’ve found that any quick fixes I’d make to the skin tones would damage other areas of the image. Now that I’ve gotten more experience by trial and error, here are my suggestions for how to get beautiful looking, natural skin tones.

Perfect Exposures
My number one rule for getting beautiful, creamy, luminescent skin tones is to always expose for the skin in any given photo. I tend to prefer high-key images, so for me, a proper skin exposure is going to be a little bit brighter than what my camera may be telling me. Just ignore that. You know what kind of exposure you need so manually set it for yourself and just go. If I can get my exposure the way I want it IN camera, I will need to make very few adjustments in post processing later. Easy!

Shoot Wide Open
My second general rule of thumb is to shoot wide open or as close to wide open as I can, generally at least f2.8 – f1.4. I do this in order to create a very shallow depth of field so that everything that is not directly under my focus point will be ever so slightly and softly out of focus. This is the best technique for getting a creamy looking skin tone that just seem to look perfect. Shooting wide open acts like an in-camera retouching tool that can help smooth over and hide skin imperfections. The only trick to it is that you need to be very critical of your focusing technique since you’re working with a very shallow depth of field. This translates to: zero wiggle room. It takes a little bit of practice but it’s not hard to learn! *Bonus TIp: If you’re used to only shooting and recomposing from the center focus point, try changing your focus point to one closer to the subject and then recompose if need be. My images were much more consistently in focus and sharp once I started doing this. This also takes a bit of practice but I promise it will eventually become second nature… (*Bonus TIp #2) …but only if you use the back button focusing technique.

HSL Sliders in Lightroom
If you can get a perfect exposure (and remember, perfect is what YOU want it to be, not always what your camera tells you it should be) and shoot in an aperture range of f2.8 – f1.4, you shouldn’t need much more to improve your skin tones. HOWEVER, even when you’re doing everything right, sometimes skin tones just come out looking wonky anyways. When this happen, get your butt in Lightroom and scroll immediately down to the HSL sliders. This is kind of my holy grail adjustment that I think will blow you away. It’s so simple yet so astounding. HSL sliders are powerful tools that allow you to adjust the hue, saturation and luminance of eight individual colors within one given image. When I can see that there is something amiss with my skin tones, I immediately try out the HSL sliders in the red, orange, and yellow families. Skin too orange? Drop the saturation a bit. Skin too dull? Boost the luminance. This is my personal FAV. I often like to increase the Luminance in the Red and Orange range to +10 or more. This just gives my skin tones a subtle za za zing without destroying the integrity of the rest of the image. *Bonus Tip #3: Another little trick I like to use is to boost my Vibrance to +25 while taking my Saturation down to around -10. Sometimes I’ll even try this before I try anything else. This is literally a 2 second fix that is subtle yet quickly takes the edge off of any orange skin nastiness. It can get tiring making these adjustments to every photo so I’ve simply created a preset called “Brie’s Luminescent Skin Tones”. I now apply the Luminance boost and the Vibrance/Saturation combo to a great number of all my photos. Yep, that’s my secret and I just told you. Now try it for yourself!

Don’t over do the Clarity
Since this Photo Tip is about skin tones (and I challenge you to count how many times I have typed those words so far), I feel it my duty to give a word of caution. Do NOT go overboard with the Clarity slider. Oh boy, the Clarity slider (contrast and detail finder) does some pretty incredible things in many applications, but I have found that if I am going for soft, perfect looking, skin tones, the Clarity can do more harm than good. If you’re used to boosting the Clarity in many of your images, stop and evaluate if it will really enhance the image or not. I think this slider gets way way too much use and in a bad way. (Halos, anyone?) But done right, I’m all about it. So just use it judiciously and you should be fine.

Here’s an example of an underexposed dud of a photo I took this weekend. The far left image is straight out of camera. It’s dark, unnatural looking, and blah. My bad. I didn’t nail my exposure on this one, obviously. In the middle image, I brought the exposure up in Lightroom so the dress would be bright but not lose any detail. Unfortunately, the skin is is still too dark and even more orange and fake looking. HSL sliders to the rescue! Since I wanted the wedding dress to remain at the same exposure, I chose to tweak only the orange and red tones of the image and nothing else. I decreased the saturation to around -20 and boosted the luminance to a whopping +55. The end result is something that looks much more natural and pleasing to the eye. Keep this in mind when photography weddings! You never want to lose detail in that beautiful dress so you have to think creatively about how to keep those details and still get a skin tone that looks natural.

To sum up: Nail your exposures, shoot wide open, befriend Lightroom’s HSL sliders, and boost Clarity sparingly. You got this, now go get it!

Posted in For Photographers, Photography, Tips + Tricks | 8 Comments | See Comments | Add a Comment

19
Jan 10
  

Photographers to Inspire


I’d like to take a moment and share with you some of the photographers whose work I really really admire. These people don’t know it but they have been incredibly influential in the development of my photography over the past 6 months. Though I am confident that I am learning to master a style of my very own, I would not be where I am right now without the inspiration of these talented artists. I admire each one of these photographers for different reasons and I think they each have a unique artistry. Check ‘em out and let me know what you think.

http://www.gabrielryan.net

http://www.jamiedelaineblog.com

http://wwww.jessicakettle.com

http://wwww.amelialyon.net

http://www.michellemooreblog.com

http://wwww.wearethebloggers.com

http://www.jessicaclaire.net

http://www.tarawhitney.com

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